Face Sculpting

 Highlighting and contouring is all about enhancing cheekbones, slimming your face, and tricking the eye in a believable way.

First step is getting the right products. You only need two: a matte shading cream or powder and a highlighter. I like to contour with a cream because you can pat it on with your fingers and it has a natural finish that doesn't look like makeup, like Senna Face Sculpting Kit ($48) or, if you're more comfortable with powder, choose a sheer formula like Sephora's Mircosmooth Baked Sculpting Trio .While the formula you use is up to you, make sure you're consistent. That means using all cream or all powder products—from your foundation to your blush. Layering different textures can cause a caked-on effect, and it won't blend as seamlessly.

Anything that stands out too much against skin is going to look obvious. If you're fair, use a contouring cream or powder that's one shade darker than your skin tone. In keeping with the idea of shadows, look for formulas with a grayish ,and stay away from anything too red or orange, like most bronzers.

Highlighter should be almost the color of your skin, with just a hint of shine. Avoid anything with noticeable sparkles, which can look chalky or just plain unnatural. If you have fair skin, a pearly shade works well, but those with medium and dark complexions need a warmer golden highlighter for a glow that looks natural, not pasty.

When contouring and highlight it is all about using the right tools. Using creams? Use your fingers. They warm the makeup so it melts and blends more seamlessly into your skin. If you're working with powder,  using a brush will natural bristles is best. Natural bristles are less dense and they're so soft, you're less likely to overdo it. The shape of the brush also lets you really control the placement.

Want instant cheekbones? Suck in your cheeks . It's the best way to find the hollows. Then, working from the tops of the hollows inward, shade along—and just beneath—the sunken area, stopping about an inch from the corner of your mouth, then blend well with your finger or a sponge. To slim your nose, blend two lines of the shading cream or powder from the start of your brows down the sides of the bridge of your nose with a small shadow brush.

Highlighting is especially important when you're contouring because it brings the light back into your face, but you don't want to overdo it. Lightly coat your pointer, middle, and ring fingers with highlighter, and then rub them against the same fingers on the other hand. Tap your fingers up and down your cheekbones, and then dab whatever's left over on your brow bones, the center of your chin, and just one tap on the tip of your nose.

Not all of the rules of highlighting and contouring are universal; it's also important to keep your face shape in mind. If you have a round face, contouring under your cheekbones can make it appear smaller. But if you have a narrow face, it could make it look even longer. Instead, shade along the top of the forehead and a bit on the chin. This technique softens angular features and creates a more rounded effect.  (Below are different face shapes with correct highlight and contour placement.)

Blending is the most important thing. Even if you've gone overboard, blending with a sponge, like the Beauty Blender($19.95,Sephora) can reign it in. Or if you used powder, run a fluffy brush with natural fibers over the finished look in a circular buffing motion. It's important to hold your brush really softly. Holding the brush toward the end of the handle will give you a softer, more seamless finish.

Don't forget the blush.Stick with a creamy soft peach or pink if you have fair skin, or soft plum for darker complexions. Blend a cream formula on the apples of your cheeks for a natural flush. 

 Picture courtesy of Maskcara.com